The day dawned fine and clear in Lobuche but very cold around -3 degrees. We set off after breakfast as usual.
The trail gradually ascends a wide valley which also runs parallel to the lower reaches of the Khumbu glacier, at the head of which Base Camp is located. The weather continues fine and clear for most of the morning and we have stunning views of the peaks all around us. Looking back we can see Ama Dablin which loomed so large is front of us just a few days ago looking small in the distance. It gives a real sense of how far we’ve come.
At the head of the valley is the Lobuche Pass, another steep ascent, and as we are now over 5,000 meters the effort to climb is multiplied by the thinning air. We trudge along really slowly, even our younger members are slowing down a bit now. The top of the pass is where we start to encounter glacial moraine territory which is really hard to navigate. There are stretches that are just huge piles of rock. This terrain gets progressively more difficult the closer we get to Base Camp.
Once we’re over the top of the pass we get our first sight of the Camp still several kilometers away. It’s a relatively easy walk to Gorakshep where we stop for lunch and drop anything we don’t need. By the time we’re ready to push on the weather has dramatically shifted again and we trudge off through heavy snow. The trail is flat for the first kilometer or so, but after that the entire journey is across difficult moraine deposits and the path becomes quite challenging and mostly uphill. It takes us another couple of hours to negotiate this and eventually the snow eases off and we are rewarded with another view of the tents of Base Camp getting closer. After crossing some massive ridges of moraine rocks we arrive at a ridge overlooking the Camp. A steep descent following by a shallow climb and we arrive at the rock which is the official trekking marker and unofficial photo spot.
It’s a very emotional feeling having made it to our destination that we have been striving towards for so many days. We have lots of fun taking photos.
Access to the Camp itself is not open to trekkers - although of course there’s always some that ignore this - so we head over to the helipad which gives a good view of the glacier and the infamous Khumbu Icefall that feeds it. The Yanks of course celebrate in style. Eric has a hip flask of Templeton Rye whisky and he chips off some ice from the glacier and hands a cup around for everyone to take a sip, except Dawa and Binod who don’t partake. So we had cocktails at Base Camp!
The Khumbu glacier is the most fascinating natural structure. Everywhere you look the ice has formed itself into fantastical sculptures which must change constantly as the ice moves. I’m fascinated by the vista. Dawa points out the place on the Icefall where his tragedy occurred - it looks frighteningly high up.
We linger for a while but are conscious of the day waning and the weather looking threatening. As we head up the steep climb away from the glacier edge there is a tremendous boom like thunder and an avalanche cascades down the slopes of Nuptse across the valley from us. We have a bird’s eye view of the event and another reminder of how dangerous this beautiful and awe-inspiring place can be.
By the time we return to the lodge at Gorakshep it is after 5.00pm. We have trekked
for 8.5 hours, reaches our overall objective and returned safely.
Everyone is well and truly exhausted but happy. About half the crew including myself have a dose of the Khumbu Cough which is caused by the cold air combined with dust from the trail.
Tonight we will sleep at the highest point yet 5170m.
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